62 Years Later at Michel's

There's nothing new, and that's the point.

You go to Michel’s at the Colony Surf for the experience. White linens, fresh flowers and dinner prepared table side amidst the backdrop of Oʻahu’s Gold Coast, the windows wide open so you can feel the breeze in your hair. Michel’s, named after the restaurant’s original maitre d’ and chef, opened in 1962 as part of the former Colony Surf Hotel. The building is now a condominium, but the menu remains the same with all the French classics from escargot to soufflé. It is one of the last restaurants on Oʻahu, besides PESCA, to offer table side service. Some of its servers have been flambéing steaks and bananas foster here for over 40 years. Chef Eberhard Kintscher, who everyone calls “Hardy,” has a great deal of respect for his servers, recognizing how much expertise it takes to cook in front of customers. 

Hardy grew up in Germany around the restaurant business, inspired by highly decorated French chefs such as Paul Bocuse. He trained in Germany and Switzerland, before moving to Los Angeles in 1985 to work for the Beverly Wilshire hotel. While there, he took a vacation to Oʻahu and fell in love with the island. Five years later, he arrived in Honolulu with one suitcase and has lived here ever since. He’s been the chef of Michel’s for 25 years. 

Order the dishes that come with a table side show: Manhattans and Old Fashioneds served in a glass box encased with smoke; caesar salad prepared by whisking fresh garlic, lemon, anchovy and parmesan into creamy dressing before tossing with Hirabara Farm baby romaine and julienned heart of palm; a sauce of sugar, butter, cherry juice and Kula rum set on fire and reduced to a syrup to coat cherries and ice cream for cherries jubilee. As your server rolls their cart away the sun begins to set, just beyond the breakers, over the Pacific Ocean. 

For two hours Iʻm transported. All of the high rises across the water fade away. Thereʻs nothing but the pink Royal Hawaiian Hotel staring back at me. Joan Didion in one of the rooms, typing away.

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